Spain and Portugal for Visitors

Montes de Toledo, Toledo Mountains, is the name of a mountain range and of two counties, one in the province of Toledo, the other in Ciudad Real. It is a lovely area, historically isolated and so spared the ravages of progress, and has at its heart the paradoxically sweeping plains of Cabañeros National Park, the Spanish Serengeti, of special interest for its flora, but also home to red deer, wild boar, Spanish imperial eagle and black griffon.

While the Montes de Toledo will appeal above all to nature lovers, towny visitors will not find themselves deprived of their precious creature comforts. Rural tourism rather than farming is now the principal sector of the area's economy, and it is strewn liberally with attractive villages, replete with picturesque castles, cottages and churches, as well as charming hotels and restaurants offering the best Castilian cuisine.

Back in the eighties, Cabañeros itself came within a hair's breadth of being turned into Europe's largest bombing range, being saved by a combination of public outrage and (I am personally convinced) general derision of then Defence Minister Narcis Serra's insistence that such a use would be good for conservation of the local flora and fauna - one of the few examples of ridicule changing the course of politics. But it was declared a national park, instead, one of the most important in the country, being of special interest for its ecosystems, a mixture of "dehesa, Mediterranean montane and grassland," to quote from the Traveller's Nature Guide to Spain. It is also a ZEPA, birdlife reserve. Be warned that it is not easy to visit, much of it only being accessible in small groups in 4WD vehicles, so plan ahead (though much of the surrounding countryside is covered by similar flora and fauna).

Practical Cabañeros. You'll need wheels, if only to get there. Then, it is possible to drive through the park, along the CM-4017 or the CM-4157, but while the latter offers fabulous views, there are few possibilities for walking and you will need to book a visit to see the park properly. The main interpretation centre and point from which you need to reserve guided walks (the alternative to 4WD - horseback visits are offered by a few local private companies) is in Retuerta del Bullaque, in the province of Ciudad Real but in terms of time almost equidistant between the cities of Ciudad Real and Toledo. 4WD visits (in groups of seven) leave from the interpretation centre at Horcajo de los Montes, and there are others in Alcoba and Casa Palillos.
Centro de Interpretación El Bullaque: tel. 926 783297
Centro de Interpretación Horcajo de los Montes: tel. 926 775384

The rest of the area is less sparsely populated, and village-hopping is probably the most enjoyable way to see it. Orgaz and Guadamur hold its most satisfying castles, others being in Cuerva, Navahermosa, San Martín de Montalbán and Guadalerzas. There are numerous Visigothic traces, especially in San Martín de Montalbán, Melque and Arisgotas. Other recommended sights are the mediaeval centre of Orgaz, the village of Cuerva, the twice-monthly cattle market in Menasalbas, the windmills of Los Yébenes, and the San Pablo de los Montes natural park.

Click here for Montes de Toledo opening hours, entrance prices, and how to get there.